This blog is dedicated to promoting the wonderful hobby of carving.
Any type, style, material or tools used. There, I said it!
Thursday, November 12, 2009
My new Website
My web site ifs finally up and running again! You can click on the D.K.Hummel Company link to the right, or click here: http://www.dkhco.com to order any of my books directly from me. I'm offering free shipping for all book sales to the lower 48 states for a limited time so act now to save yourself some loot. If you order a copy of all three I'm knocking off an additional $5.00 until 12/31. Alaska, Hawaii and most of Canada can pay a flat fee of $4.95. If you live outside the US, just email me from the website for a shipping quote. I accept PayPal, Money Orders and Personal Checks. I'm still hammering out all the different shipping options for international sales. Enjoy!
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Log Chair for a local restaurant.
This is a little animation from a series of log chairs that I carved for a local restaurant. This is number 1 of 4 and carved from a fresh cut Tulip Poplar log. The animation goes a little fast but the time lapse on my video camera turned off for some reason and by the time I noticed, it was almost too late. I worked on this face for about 4 days. I coated the carving every day before stopping with anchor seal to keep the face from cracking. I did the carving in the middle of winter next to a wood stove and had no cracks when finished. Unfortunately I did not video tape the other 3 faces. Enjoy.
Monday, June 8, 2009
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
New golf ball carving book cover photos.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Carving Golf Balls

Friday, April 10, 2009
Just finished new carving
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Tool Identification while carving
I bought a couple of 12" and 18" magnetic strips used to hold a set of knives in a kitchen. I think they were $8 or $10 each from Woodworkers Supply. I mounted the long one to the edge of my carving table and one on the inside of the lid of my carving box. When I'm carving next to the table I keep the tips up where I can see them. They snap on and off the strip instantly, are held in place very firmly, and now they don't roll off the table or get jumbled in a pile anymore as I speed carve (LOL). When you get 20 or 30 tools all over the table it gets crazy-frustrating.
The strip in the lid is for traveling, shows etc... I use mostly the interchangeable Flexcut tools in my kit. As I carve I can toss them on the strip and even close the lid quickly if needed and not drop them all over the place. As far as marking them, I engraved all the Flexcut tools with the catalog number to identify them. I am a Flexcut dealer and have most all the profiles in the shop. This way a customer can try the tool before they buy and I can instantly identify the number so that they get the right tool off the rack. "Letterset" makes sheets of dry transfer letters and numbers that could be put on the handles. They transfer from the sheet by rubbing with a small stick. You can then cover with a little clear spray etc... They could then be removed later if the tools were going to be sold. I used this technique several years ago before I started using the engraver.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Sealing wood ends to prevent cracking.
As you all know, shortly after cutting any type of wood, it will begin to crack. If you store your wood in a place where it is at all dry this can happen overnight. Apple and Cherry will crack in just a few hours indoors, sometimes the ends will split several inches and ruin the whole piece. There are several ways to slow this down and sometimes prevent it from happening. In the past I've melted wax in an deep electric skillet. Then I would dip both ends of the piece. This absolutely works great, but you have to have a goodly supply of wax, candles etc... around and it really only works for the ends or small (whole) pieces. About two years ago I switched to a product called Anchor Seal. It is a liquid wax that air dries in an hour or so, sometimes shorter depending on the storage facility. The advantage over melting wax is that you can brush it into hard to get at places. This is especially good for coating all the small branch ends cut off of a walking stick. I will cut 20 or 30 walking sticks in a weekend and immediately coat both ends and any branch cut offs and put them on a drying rack. Sometimes the ends will drip if I put too much on so I put a couple of sheets of newspaper on the floor under each end. When I get ready to carve, the wax can either be scraped off or the ends can be put into warm water for a minute or so and most if the wax will wipe off. Also if I am carving wood that is still green, I will coat the carved area with the liquid wax if I cannot finish the piece in one sitting. I've had noses and beards split too badly to be repaired letting wood dry too quickly.
Monday, March 30, 2009

You can have a signed copy with free shipping to the lower 48 states for only $14.95. You can become a dealer by ordering only 6 copies, mix or match with any of my other books. Send me an email if interested.

Anyone can have a signed copy with free shipping to the lower 48 states for only $12.95. You can become a dealer by ordering only 6 copies, mix or match with any of my other books. Send me an email if interested.



Sunday, March 29, 2009
Springtime
Now that spring is here (sort of), it's now time to get out in the woods and harvest some walking sticks. If you want to easily peel the bark off of maple and the like, this is the best time to do it. The sap is flowing and the bark will peel without any damage to the stick underneath. On the other hand if you want to keep the bark on don't cut them yet. If you do, as they dry the bark will not stay attached and you will end up with a bark tube. LOL
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